“She matched his demands with her erudition,” said Dorothy Kalins, a magazine editor who founded Saveur and who had cooked with the couple for years, in an earlier interview.
Hazan, an erudite and precise man who has published two wine books. Hazan was never able to write in English, so all her work ultimately flowed through Mr.
Hazan, and the collaboration would come to be one of the greatest in the history of cookbook writing and instruction, if not also one of the most formidable for editors. Hazan’s copy of a cookbook by Ada Boni.Īll of her work was translated through Mr. And she began to learn to cook, relying on her memory and Mr. Hazan began to learn English by watching television and following the Brooklyn Dodgers. In the couple’s tiny apartment in Forest Hills, Queens, Mrs. Throughout her life, her arm would make her cringe when she saw herself on television. Her arm remained undersize and bent, but still able to hold a knife. She broke her right arm and endured several operations. When she was 7, she fell while running on a beach in Alexandria, Egypt, where her family was living. Marcella Hazan (pronounced mar-CHELL-ah huh-ZAHN), born Marcella Polini on April 15, 1924, was also dealing with a physical handicap. And at the supermarket they were very dead. “The chicken, they were arriving from the farmer and they were alive. “I never saw a supermarket in Italy,” she told Linda Wertheimer in an interview with National Public Radio in 2010. Hazan began navigating a bewildering city that shopped and cooked in ways that were completely foreign. Hazan worked at his family’s business, and Mrs. He moved back there from New York in his 20s.Īfter returning to New York, Mr. Her tomato sauce, enriched with only an onion, butter and salt, embodies her approach, but she has legions of devotees to other recipes, among them her classic Bolognese, pork braised in milk and her minestrone.īut she was determined to cook for her new husband, a dapper man from a family of Manhattan furriers, who had been born in Italy. She abhorred the overuse of garlic in much of what passed for Italian food in the United States, and would not suffer fools afraid of salt or the effort it took to find quality ingredients. Hazan embraced simplicity, precision and balance in her cooking. “She was the first mother of Italian cooking in America,” said Lidia Bastianich, the New York restaurateur and television cooking personality. Even people who have never heard of Marcella Hazan cook and shop differently because of her, and the six cookbooks she wrote, starting in 1973 with “The Classic Italian Cook Book: The Art of Italian Cooking and the Italian Art of Eating.”
Hazan had on the way America cooks Italian food is impossible to overstate. She had been suffering from emphysema for many years, and had severe circulation problems, her husband, Victor, said.
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